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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.